Fear Factor - Phobia V: Tacos de Lengua

Before you turn to your Spanish dictionary for confirmation, yes, these tacos are made from beef tongue.  Please don't run away kicking and screaming, you'll really be missing out!

I pride myself on not being a picky eater.  That being said, I have never really eaten or cooked any sort of offal - "the nasty bits" as Anthony Bourdain would say, nose-to-tail, the organs that often get discarded.  To be honest, I'm afraid.  Very afraid.  The smell of liver and onions that would permeate our house once a year as a child still gives me nightmares.  I don't like pate, foie gras or any other "delicacy" made from those other cuts.

But I do want to try new things, grow some cajones, conquer my fears and explore different cultures.  Traditionally (and in many places even today), meat was very expensive and these were often the only cuts the average person could afford.  They learned how to cook them well, make them delicious, and many of our favorite dishes today were the result of such ingenuity.

I figured that the best place to start my foray into this whole new world was with a cut that was still a muscle, just like the steak harvested from other parts of the cow.  I'd heard good things about beef tongue from everyone who'd tried it and it's almost a religious experience for taco truck obsessives. So when a sign posted at Springfield Farm alerted me to FREE beef tongue (along with livers, kidneys and other, scarier meats), I figured why not.  After all, if I didn't like it I could throw it away without the guilt.  My philosophy always when trying something new is not to vary too much from the classic preparation.  Therefore, I set out to make some beef tongue tacos.

And I have to say, I'm so glad I did.  Cleaning the tongue was the hardest part, with a bit of an ick factor, because there's no doubt what you're dealing with.  Most recipes call for boiling the tongue, then peeling back the skin, but I chose to cut the skin off first so that I could sear and braise the meat.  Although this was a bit more difficult then cooking it first, I think it allowed me to develop more flavor and quickly disguise the cut for the squeamish.  Once braised in a tomato and chile based sauce, it was tender and super flavorful, the essence of what a beef taco should be.  At this point, it looked and felt just like pot roast, not scary at all.  If you're on the fence, do give it a try.  Sandwiched in a corn tortilla with fresh salsa and sharp cheddar, I honestly think these might be the best tacos I've ever had.

Tacos de Lengua (Braised Beef Tongue Tacos)

Note: this makes WAY more sauce then you will use for the amount of meat, but it is necessary to properly braise the meat.  The extra freezes well and is a great enchilada sauce or base for a mexican soup or chili.

1 3-4 lb. beef tongue
1 quart tomatoes (alternatively substitute canned stewed tomatoes and skip the skinning step)

2 Tbsp olive oil (divided)
spice rub of your choice
1 large onion
1 chipotle in adobo, minced
2 Tbsp tomato paste
2 tsp chile powder
2 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ancho chile powder
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp sea salt
1 cup red wine
3-4 cups beef stock

1 tsp olive oil
6 inch corn tortillas
grated sharp or extra sharp cheddar
fresh (preferably homemade) salsa
other toppings of your choice (ex: sour cream, guacamole, radish, shredded carrots or lettuce, avocado, etc)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.  Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl.  Slit each tomato with a paring knife.

When the water is boiling, add the tongue and boil for 5 minutes or so.  Emerge in ice bath to cool down.  Use a sharp serrated knife to trim away the tongue of all skin and any meat that seems to have an odd texture (such as where the tongue attaches to the mouth of the cow) and discard.  Meanwhile, immerse the tomatoes in the boiling water until their skin starts to peel away, then plunge them into an ice bath.  After they've cooled, peel and remove any tough cores, then set aside.

Drain your pot of water, add 1 Tbsp of oil and put over medium high heat. Split the tongue into 2 pieces, preferably similar in size.  At this point it should resemble a chuck roast or another normal beef cut.  Rub each piece with the spice rub.  I used McCormick's Cowboy Rub.  Any sort of Mexican, steak or BBQ rub will do.  Sear the tongue on each side until well browned.  Remove and set aside.

Add the remaining Tbsp of oil and saute onions until soft.  Add chipotle, tomato paste and seasonings.  Saute until slightly caramelized and beginning to brown on the bottom of the pan.  Add red wine and stir to deglaze.  Reintroduce the tomatoes and tongue and transfer to a slow cooker.  Add enough stock to almost cover the meat.  Cook on the high setting in the slow cooker for 4 hours.

Remove beef tongue.  Puree sauce (I recommend a stick blender for this) and bring it to a boil to reduce. Meanwhile, chop the meat.  The sauce should reduce until thickened, a little bit less thick then a marinara.

When this consistency is reached, heat up a tsp of oil in a small skillet.  Fry up the tongue meat (about a cup for every 3 tacos) for a couple of minutes before adding a big spoonful of sauce.  Let cook about another minute in the sauce.  Meanwhile, spritz tortillas with cooking spray and toast in a large nonstick pan until slightly charred.

To assemble, sprinkle tortilla with shredded cheese, pile in meat and top with salsa and other toppings of your choosing.  Then sit back and enjoy taco nirvana, preferably alongside a cold Corona with lime.

Fear Factor - Phobia IV: Conquering Canning

I've been wanting to get my feet wet with the whole canning thing for a long time now. I swore to myself I would do it this summer, and then here I was, first week of school, and no summer bounty stored away in a dark cupboard. And then we went back up north for labor day. And we went to pick blueberries at an apple orchard. And I came home with a bushel of tomato "seconds" (yes I know the logic's a little hard to follow - apples --> blueberries --> tomatoes?). There was absolutely nothing wrong with these tomatoes except they weren't the prettiest jewels on the plant. And they were twelve dollars. This after I was just forced to buy 5 tomatoes for sixteen bucks at Giant for deconstructed tomato sauce because I forgot to visit the farmer's market. So I really had no choice but to take them home. My hands were tied.


Bursting with juice and ruby red, they were wonderful sliced alongside burrata drizzled with balsamic and dressed with a shower of basil confetti. But one simply does not eat an entire bushel of tomatoes before they go bad. What a perfect time to conquer my irrational fear of canning (I'm worried I might kill someone). Tomato sauce is a wonderful way to break into canning, since its high acid content creates an inhospitable environment for those nasty little microbes. It was surprisingly easy, albeit a little time consuming. Now I have visions of jam bursting with fall fruits and jars of homemade pickles.


Use wide mouth jars for this, it will make your life much easier!


Italian Red Gravy (Also known as homemade spaghetti sauce)
Makes 6 quarts.



3 Tbsp butter
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 cups mirepoix (2:1:1 ratio diced onions, carrots and celery)
1 cup diced portobello mushrooms
1 cup Burgundy wine, or other semi-dry red
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 bushel tomatoes (about 30)

1 large container of Italian seasoning (about 2/3 cup)
4 bay leaves
2 Tbsp garlic powder
1 Tbsp salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 Tbsp cracked black pepper
1 tsp crushed red pepper

6 cloves of garlic, sliced thin
2 Tbsp concentrated shelf-stable chicken stock (from Trader Joes) - demi-glace would also work
1 4 oz. can roasted garlic tomato paste
1 4 oz. can Italian herb tomato paste

6 Tbsp lemon juice
6 wide mouth canning jars with lids and rings
boiling water canner with rack
silicone coated tongs or canning tongs

In the largest stockpot you own, saute mirepoix and mushrooms in butter and oil until softened and slightly caramelized.
Deglaze with wine and vinegar and cook for 2 minutes over medium heat.

Puree tomatoes in batches in a blender. Strain the juice of seeds and skin in a china hat colander into the pot. Repeat until all tomatoes are used or until pot is full (if you're pot doesn't hold them all you will have to reduce it first, then add more and reduce again). Add seasonings and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce by half, stirring occasionally, 2-3 hours.

Add garlic, concentrated stock and tomato paste. Simmer another 40 minutes, or until thick. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight.

Reheat tomato sauce over medium heat.

Fill the canner with water and place jars (without lids) under water on rack. Bring to a boil. Place lids in a small saucepan, covered with water and bring to a simmer (no more than 180 degrees). Do not boil!

Remove jars from hot water one at a time using tongs to fill them. First, put a Tbsp of lemon juice in each one. Using a ladle and canning funnel (both sterilized in boiling water), fill jars with sauce, leaving 1/2 inch headroom. Use tongs to fetch a warm lid. Center it on top of the jar and press down in the middle of the lid. Cover with a ring and tighten until your encounter resistance (fingertip tight). Do not tighten all the way.

Insert jars onto rack under water. Make sure they are covered by 1-2 inches of water. Bring to a boil. Lid and boil for 35 minutes. Remove jars to a folded kitchen towel and let sit for 2 days. Don't tighten the rings until after this 48 hour period. When you press down on the middle of the lid, it should not pop up and down. If it moves at all you need to reprocess.

Store in a cool, dark place for up to one year. Serve atop chicken parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs, layered into lasagna or in pepperoni rolls.

#100 AKA Fear Factor - Phobias 2 & 3: Cake Decorating & Dry Method Caramel

Hooray! This is my 100th post AND I’ve conquered 2 food phobias AND we have a cake to celebrate with! What a fitting tribute!

This Daring Baker’s Challenge (my 3rd) was a little disheartening to me, since we just made a nut based, buttercream frosted opera cake, neither me nor my boyfriend like cake all that much, and I have never been able to produce a professional looking cake. But I did like the idea of a praline flavored cake.

I decided to go with a Southern theme, since the word praline means a soft pecan candy in my mind. To complement that theme, I combined the praline flavor with Georgia peach. This is a cake I imagine might be served at a bridal shower in Savannah, alongside sweet tea and finger sandwiches, and delicately picked at by women with flowing hair in floral dresses.



Since I altered the recipe dramatically (and also, I found the original instructions hard to follow), I decided to rewrite the directions. I hope I didn’t break the rules, since I used my own buttercream recipe, a traditional pecan praline and left out the sugar syrup. I just know 4 sticks of butter would be way too much for me and everyone seemed to be having trouble with the frosting. I also used a soufflé dish to bake the cake, which resulted in a taller profile, which is easier to cut smaller slices from, as this cake is decidedly rich!

I spent much more time and attention on decorating this cake than I ever have before, trying to get over my fear of cake decorating. It still makes me nervous, but I’ve followed the tips of some great bakers and I’m pretty happy with the results. I conquered two fears here, cake decorating (I have a very shaky hand- although admittedly I still didn't do that much piping) and dry method caramel (I can’t believe I didn’t burn it!). As if it needed more steps than it already had, I felt the need to make sugar decorations for the cake as well, which also resulted in a caramel sauce.



After the opera cake, which was OK, but cloyingly sweet and really nothing special (I blame the white chocolate), I was prepared to be disappointed. I was pleasantly surprised when this cake not only looked beautiful, but tasted divine! The flavors here work perfectly, especially since I cut the sugar level in the frosting. So here’s to the next hundred posts, may they be even more delicious and rewarding!

Southern Belle Cake



1. First, make the cake (a pecan genoise):

1 1/2 cups pecans, toasted
2/3 cup cake flour
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
7 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar, divided (1/4 and 3/4 cups)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp pecan extract
? tsp. grated tangerine zest
5 lg. egg whites
1/4 cup warm, clarified butter (100 – 110 degrees), poured into a liquid measure cup with a spout

Position rack in the lower 3rd of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 6” inch (diameter) soufflé dish. Alternatively, spray with Baker’s Joy – a nonstick spray that already has flour in it!

Using a food processor, process nuts until coarsely ground. Add cake flour and cornstarch, pulse for about 30 seconds. Then, pulse the mixture about 10 times to get a fine, powdery mixture. While you want to make sure there aren’t any large pieces, don’t over-process. Set aside.

Put the yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, and beat until thick and light in color, about 3-4 minutes on med-high speed. Slowly, add 3/4 cup of sugar. It is best to do so by adding a tablespoon at a time, taking about 3 minutes for this step. When finished, the mixture should form a ribbon when drizzled from a spoon. Blend in the extracts and zest. Remove and set aside.

Place egg whites in a large, clean bowl of the electric mixer with the whisk attachment and beat on medium speed, until soft peaks. Increase to med-high speed and slowly add the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar, over 15-20 seconds or so. Continue to beat until the wgg whites form stiff peaks (they don’t fall over at the top).
Add the yolk mixture to the whites and whisk for 1 minute.

Put the nut meal in a mesh strainer and sprinkle it in about 2 tablespoons at a time with one hand while folding the batter carefully. When all but about 2 Tbsp. of nut meal remain, quickly and steadily pour the warm butter over the batter while folding. Then, fold the batter to incorporate the remaining nut meal, about 13 or so folds.

With a rubber spatula, transfer the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the surface with the spatula or back of a spoon. Tap the pan on the counter to remove air bubbles and bake in the preheated oven for 40-45 minutes. You’ll know the cake is done when it is springy to the touch and it separates itself from the side of the pan. You can also use a toothpick to check – it should come out clean. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 7 minutes in pan on a wire rack. Invert onto the rack, removing the pan. Let cool about 20 minutes.

Slice into 3 even layers – I’ve found the easiest way to do this is to get 2 pieces of wood from the hardware store that are the right thickness for your layers (I like 1/2 to 3/4 inch layers). Lay them down on either side of your cake on a level surface. Use a long serrated bread knife, keeping the side of the blade on both ends resting on the pieces of wood, and slide it along the wood, sawing slightly if needed, until you cut all the way through. Repeat for the other two layers. You will probably end up throwing away a narrow piece of cake from the top. At this point, make the peach glaze.

*If not using the cake right away, wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap, then in a plastic bag, then in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If freezing, wrap in foil, then the bag and use within 2-3 months.


2. For the peach glaze:

2/3 cup peach preserves (I like Polaner’s All Fruit)
1 Tbsp water

In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring both ingredients to a simmer. Remove from heat. Brush onto 2 cake slices while they’re still slightly warm. Now let cake and glaze cool completely before frosting.



3. To make the Pecan Pralines:

3/4 cup light brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 tablespoons water
1/2 tsp pecan extract
1 cup pecan halves

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the light brown sugar, granulated sugar, heavy cream, butter, and water. Place over a medium-high heat and stir constantly until the sugar mixture reaches the softball stage, 238 to 240 degrees F. Add the extract and pecans to the candy, and pull the pan off of the stove. Continue to stir the candy vigorously with a wooden spoon until the candy cools, and the pecans remain suspended in the candy, about 2 minutes. I like to also crush some of the pecan halves a little bit during this step. Spoon the pralines out onto a silpat or parchment lined sheet pan and cool completely before breaking into chunks.



4. For Peach Praline Buttercream Frosting:

1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup peach preserves
2 Tbsp frangelico liquor
1 Tbsp water
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 3/4 sticks unsalted butter at room temperature (7 oz)
1 tsp pecan extract
1/2 cup pecan pralines, blended into a paste in the food processor

Combine first 3 ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook without stirring until mixture reaches 225 degrees (F).

Meanwhile, whisk egg and yolk in the bowl of a stand mixer on high speed until foamy.

When syrup reaches 225, remove from heat, decrease mixer speed to low, and slowly pour syrup down the side of the mixing bowl as it beats the egg mixture. After it’s all incorporated, raise the speed to medium-high and whisk until cool to the touch, glossy and smooth (about 5 minutes).

Meanwhile, mash the butter with a fork in a small bowl.

Incorporate the butter into the frosting on medium speed in tablespoon chunks. When all butter is incorporated, turn up to high and beat until thick and shiny. Add extract and praline paste and beat another minute.

Refrigerate 15-20 minutes before frosting.


5. Assembling the layers:

Cut a cardboard base to the size of your cake at it’s narrowest part or use the removable bottom of a tart pan as a base. Rest the middle of the base on an upside down bowl or ramekin that sits very flat and stable and lets the base rest without tipping.

Place the smallest layer (spread with glaze) on the base. Spread its top with frosting, in an even layer. Press small pieces of crumbled praline into the frosting. Use a spatula to level off the frosting layer. Chill for 20 minutes.

Repeat with second layer.

Top with final (unglazed) layer. Using a serrated knife, place the blade flat against the side of the cake, pressed against the side of the layer with the smallest diameter. Using an up and down sawing motion, keep the blade pressed up against that layer as you turn the base, trimming the sides so that no layer of the cake is wider than the other. Level off the top if needed, The easiest way to do this is to find a couple objects with flat surfaces as tall as your cake and use the knife the same way you did to cut the layers.

Give the cake a crumb coat of frosting by applying a very thin layer to side and top, scraping away excess to leave just a very thin coating. Chill at least 30 minutes.



5. Tackle the ganache:

4 oz. good quality semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
4 oz. (1/2 cup) heavy cream
2 tsp. light corn syrup
2 tsp. Frangelico liquor
1/2 tsp. pecan extract

Combine first 3 ingredients in the top of a double boiler with about 2 cups of water in the bottom. Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat. Stir mixture well until all the chocolate has melted. Add Frangelico and pecan extract. Stir until smooth. Let cool 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Arrange the cake on its base over a wire rack, with a baking sheet below to catch the drips.

Pour ganache over the center of the cake, being sure that it flows evenly towards the edges. Let it flow over the edges. Work quickly to smooth it evenly over the sides with a flat spatula. Don’t smooth the top – it should level out on its own. Before it sets, rap the cake base down onto the rack to avoid air bubbles. Let the cake sit at least 30 minutes for the glaze to set.

In the meantime…



6. Make the Sugar Doodads

In a heavy bottomed small saucepan over medium high heat, melt 1/2 cup sugar, stirring occasionally and slowly with a wooden spoon, until it becomes a golden brown liquid. Immediately add an additional 1/2 cup sugar, and stir slowly. Keep cooking, stirring slowly, until all of the sugar is melted and the liquid is dark golden brown. Before it starts to smoke, remove pan from heat and cool the outside by submerging (just the outside!) in cold water. When it thickens slightly, use a wooden spoon to drizzle sugar onto a silpat or parchment paper, making small circles and zig zags on top of each other by moving your wrist as you drizzle. Let cool before handling.

***Note: these need to be made on a dry day or with the AC on high. They will soften too fast if it is humid. Any extras will keep for about a day, wrapped in parchment and stored in a plastic bag. For leftover sugar, reheat over medium heat until liquid, mix in heavy cream in a 2:1 ratio of sugar to cream. (Be careful – it will boil up). Cool and you have a tasty caramel sauce.***



7. Decorate the cake…

This part’s kind of up to you. I went a fairly simple route, pressed large sugar doodads around the sides, piped dots with a star tip in the center of where the slices will be and stuck a small doodad into each one.

Chill cake at least one hour before slicing. Slice with a serrated knife dipped in hot water.



Phew…I know these are a lot of directions. But it did take me all day. And while it’s certainly no cake for beginners, it’s a surefire way to impress the toughest critics if you’re up to a challenge. After all, that’s why we’re Daring Bakers!

Fear Factor - Phobia I: Breads from a Sponge

Recently, Deb of Smitten Kitchen asked about what we're afraid to cook, resulting in a massive comments column. I have some cooking fears of my own that I need to conquer. They're irrational and I know I am perfectly capable of doing these things. Let's start with sponge. There's something scary about yeast, even when you're used to working with it. Maybe it's also the need to keep the sponge going by feeding it. Maybe it's just that it's ALIVE! In any case, this was so easy that I don't know what my problem was.

L says this is my best bread yet. Family loved it - both loaves were gone in an hour... Must make more (hence short post)...




Mediterranean Sundried Tomato and Olive Bread

Sponge
1 cup slightly warm filtered water
1/2 tsp active dry yeast
1 1/4 cup unbleached bread flour
2 Tbsp spelt flour (or whole wheat)
2 Tbsp rye flour

Whisk yeast and water together and let sit for 3 minutes, until it gets slightly foamy. Stir in flours. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let sit overnight - up to 24 hours.

Dough
Sponge
1 cup slightly warm filtered water
3/4 tsp active dry yeast
2 1/2 tsp sea salt
1 1/2 Tbsp dark brown sugar
3 cups bread flour (up to 4 cups if needed)
3 Tbsp rosemary garlic seasoning
3 Tbsp italian seasoning
1/2 cup parmesan cheese
1/4 cup finely chopped kalamata olives
1/8 cup finely chopped smoked sundried tomatoes

Deflate sponge and transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir water and yeast into sponge, let sit 2 minutes for yeast activation. Add remainder of ingredients, including 3 cups bread flour, and use the dough hook with the mixer on low speed to combine. Add enough of the remaining cup of flour to form a soft (not sticky) dough. Kneed on medium speed for 2 minutes. Form dough into a ball and let rise in an oiled bowl, loosely covered with plastic wrap, for 60 minutes, or until doubled in size.

Flour a cookie sheet or pizza peel and form dough into desired loaf shape. Cover with a clean dish towel and let rise another 2-4 hours. Half an hour before baking, insert a pizza stone on the middle rack of the oven and preheat to 450.

Slide dough onto pizza stone and mist the top of loaves with water. Mist the sides of the oven that do not contain a light or heating element. Bake for 20 minutes, misting every 5 minutes. Reduce heat to 400 and bake until well browned and crusty. Let cool 20 minutes before slicing.